How To Buy Rear Shocks & Struts

A shock and a strut would perform the same basic task on the vehicle which is damping the movement of the spring and stopping oscillation and bounce. Even though the same thing is done by both of them, shocks and struts are fully different parts. A shock cannot be used to replace a strut and a strut cannot be used to replace a shock. A vehicle would have either a shock or strut at each wheel and never both. Each and every vehicle is designed with either shocks or struts and the vehicle’s suspension cannot be changed to use the other.

If you want to know more about car shock and struts, and why you need them, visit our What is the difference between the shock absorbers and struts section.

Do you want to know the essential features of rear shocks & struts? Then you have arrived at the right place. Have a look below to know the important features of rear shocks & struts:

• Twin tube design should offer restored ride quality and handling.
• Multi-shim valve systems should be “vehicle specific” for superior-handling ride control and comforts, as opposed to the less expensive “on-off” valve used by most shock companies for decades.
• Piston rod should be hardened, micro-polished and then double chrome-plated for durability.
• Twin tube design should provide an outer tube to protect the working components from damage. Tubes are made of cold drawn extruded steel.

Are you searching how the rear shocks & struts actually work? Then all you have to do is to have a look below and then you will be able to understand everything.

The shocks and struts help in stabilizing the movement of your vehicle, which enhances the control when you would turn, brake, accelerate or encounter uneven road surfaces. These days the vehicles use shocks, struts or a combination of the two.

The basic difference is that a shock is an independent component, while the strut combines the shock and other features in a single structural unit. Both of them help in stabilizing the vehicle and keep the tires in contact with the pavement. In the absence of shocks, the vehicle starts bouncing down the road.

Do you want to know some frequent problems which might start occurring in the rear shocks & struts? Take a look below to know some frequent problems with the rear shocks & struts:

1. The Vehicle Bounces - It is the coil springs which are responsible for dampening the transfer of energy when a vehicle drives over bumps, potholes and uneven roads. The automobile’s shocks and struts help in controlling the movement of the vehicle’s springs so that the wheels don’t move up and down excessively. Now when these components are stuck, damaged or loose, the tires lose contact with the road as the car is driven, which results in a bumpy, uncomfortable ride.
2. The Front-End Dives and/or the Rear Squats - Shocks and struts help in keeping the vehicle stable during acceleration and braking. When the vehicle’s shocks and struts are damaged, the front end can dive upon braking while the rear end squats during acceleration. It usually happens when these components are not strong enough to handle the weight of the automobile.
3. The Vehicle Exhibits Signs of Body Roll - Similar to how a vehicle can dip and squat during braking and acceleration events, the stability of the car might also be compromised during cornering. If the shocks start to go bad, then the body would feel as if it is leaning into the turn - even on slight turns. Again, it can be a safety issue which requires immediate action since it can impact braking and steering effectiveness.
4. Occurrence of Unusual Noises - If you hear some unusual noises, then it means that the vehicle’s suspension system requires service. Now as the shocks and bushings wear, they lose their ability to properly support the strut. As a result that the strut can bottom out. When the strut would bottom out, the metal-to-metal contact might cause a knocking sound which emanates from the front or rear wheels. Another cause of suspension-related noise can be tire cupping, or scalloping.

There are a few things which might cause your rear shocks & struts to malfunction. Watch for the following symptoms if you suspect a bad rear shocks & struts:

• Badly cupped tires and/or there can be noticeable tire shaking, wheel shimmy or vibration after hitting a bump.
• Suspension bottoming on rough roads or when backing out of a driveway.
• There might be a bouncy ride.
• Body sway or rocking when cornering or ­driving in strong crosswinds.
• Nose dive when braking hard.
• Fluid might start leaking from a strut or shock.

Do you like repairing your car on your own? Thinking of opening up your own car body shop? It is a great business opportunity if you love cars and possess a good work ethic. Now if you want your shop to be successful, you will require a combination of effort and car mechanic training. And of course, the correct equipment which would upgrade your speed and make your repair work easy. If you have the right tools, then you can easily meet the demands of today's car body structures. Here are some of the most essential tools which you might need to repair your rear shocks & struts.

• Car Jack
• Jack Stands
• Wheel Chock
• Torque Wrench
• Shocks And/Or Struts *Note: Replace In Pairs Only.
• Ratchet
• Wrench
• New Rubber Bushings (Always Install New Shocks With New Rubber Bushings)
• Coil Spring Compressors
• New Rubber Mounts For Struts (Always Install New Struts With New Rubber Mounts
• 6-Inch C-Clamp
• Allen Wrench
• Pry Bar
• Ratcheting Box-End Wrench
• Backing Wrench
• Screwdriver

If you know which car parts brand suits the best for your rear shocks & struts, then it would save a lot of your decision-making time. What we believe is that picking a particular brand will always be helpful in reducing the clutter, and make it easier for the customers to find what they are actually looking for. That’s why we have listed out some top brands for rear shocks & struts below:-

• Monroe/Expert Series Rear Shocks & Struts
• Bilstein Rear Shocks & Struts
• Moog Rear Shocks & Struts
• KYB Rear Shocks & Struts
• Rancho Rear Shocks & Struts
• Edelbrock Rear Shocks & Struts

For more information about Top Brand Shocks & Struts, visit our What Are The Top Brands Of Shock Absorbers I Can Choose? section.

Do you want to know what are the related parts of the car rear shocks & struts? We are here to help you out. Have a look at rear shocks & struts related parts below:-

• Rear Complete Strut Assembly
• Rear Cartridge
• Rear Self Leveling Shock
• Rear Shock Or Strut Insulators
• Rear Shock Bellows Kits
• Rear Shock Bracket Kits

Do you want to know the car rear shocks & struts replacement cost, replacement labour cost, average cost or how much does it cost to replace it? If yes, then all you have to do is keep on reading further. If you are seeing blown car rear shocks & struts signs from your vehicle, then it means that a repair bill is coming. More than other failures on a car, nothing is like a faulty car rear shocks & struts. Now if your car rear shocks & struts go bad, then it would cause a lot of issues in the functioning of your car. Don’t worry! We will help you replace your worn out rear struts and shocks. Keep in mind that the car rear shocks & struts replacement cost would depend upon the type of automobile, brand, as well as various other factors. If you want to substitute your Rear Shocks & Struts, then it would range between $450 and $900. An individual strut assembly would cost around $150 to $300, so you’re looking at around $300 to $600 for parts alone. Talking about the labour expenses, they would range between $150 to $300.

Do you want to change your rear shocks & struts on your own? Then have a look at the steps of changing the rear shocks & struts below:

Start with the Basics

• It is very essential to note that you must install the right type of shocks for your vehicle to perform as it was intended.
• Now before you start, just make sure that there is a large, level workspace and plenty of time to finish your project. Then your car should be parked with the emergency break set. It would be a great idea to slightly loosen the lug nuts before you jack up your ride, since the lug nuts would need a lot of pressure to break free. Just make sure that you utilize the right jack-points, which can be found in your owner’s manual. You can also place the jack-stand under the vehicle. Even for the more security, you should chock the wheel on the opposite corner of the vehicle to prevent rolling.
• The shocks or struts purchased, may or may not come with detailed instructions for installation. If they do, make sure to adhere to those steps for the best results. The shocks and struts must be replaced in pairs. When you would be replacing your shocks, you would also get a great opportunity to check your brake pads, control arms, axles and CV shafts for torn boots and free play. Now that you would be prepped properly, then have a look at the installation process below:

How to Install Shocks:

Step 1

First you should remove your first tire, and then the shock assembly should be located. There are a lot of shocks which attach from the axle or lower suspension.

Step 2

The old shock would be held in place by two bolts. You can also remove the horizontal one on the bottom first, by utilizing a ratchet on the nut and a backup wrench on the bolt-head to keep it from spinning.

Step 3

There might be a need of long flathead screwdriver or pry bar to finagle the shock from its perch.

Step 4

The new shocks and new rubber bushings should always be installed. A thin coating should be applied to either side of the shock eyelets to make it easy to fit the new shock back in.

Step 5

A new shock should be placed in the vehicle by aligning both ends of the shock. Now for the shocks with two bolts, it would be easier to install the top bolt first. Just keep in mind that there is no need to tighten the bolts and nuts until both are in place. A rubber mallet or plastic dead-blow hammer would come in handy. You should tap gently on either end to work the new shock into position.

Step 6

Now once you think that you have the shock positioned, an alignment dowel or drift pin should be used through the mounting holes and through the shock eyelets. It ensures that the shock is aligned properly, so your mounting hardware can install very easily. This way, you will not damage any threads.

Step 7

All the bolts and nuts should be tightened to the appropriate torque specification. The retaining wire or plastic tie should be cut. The wheel should be reinstalled and then you should tighten the lug nuts.

These procedures should then be repeated for other tires.

How to Install Struts:

• The installation of the strut is a bit more complicated, necessitating the use of two less-common tools: a spring compressor and a pass-through socket set. And a pass-through socket set is often needed, which would allow you to insert a tool (in this example, a long hex) to hold the strut rod stationary, while loosening the top nut of the strut rod. The rubber strut mount bearing assembly at the upper end should also be changed along with the strut, and it should also be purchased individually. Just make sure that you follow the complete instructions that accompany your strut purchase for the best results.
• There can be some vehicles where there would be a need to remove the disk brake caliper to gain clear access to the mounting bolts on the bottom-end of the strut. It is recommended to get the complete front-end, or entire rear-end off the ground (it all depends upon which end you tackle first), especially for vehicles with sway bars. It makes the process of removal easier, as it relieves the pressure from the sway bar, which might otherwise work against you.
• You should then locate the strut, which is generally mounted to the steering knuckle. Generally there are two bolts at the base of the strut assembly through what looks like a large compression clamp around the base of the strut. The two lower mounting bolts should then be removed.
• Now if you will be working on the front struts, pop your hood to access the upper strut mount hardware (typically three nuts). The top three nuts should then be removed. Then at this point, the strut assembly should be loose and ready to remove from the vehicle. If the assembly is still too tight to remove, there would be a need to compress the spring while it’s still sitting above the knuckle. Most likely you would notice a large nut in the center of the strut assembly. Just keep in mind that you should not remove this just yet, because it is the only thing which would be holding the spring to the strut mount bearing assembly and should be removed once the strut is freed from the vehicle as a complete unit.
• A pair of coil spring compressors should be used to compress as many of the vehicle’s springs as possible. Then the spring should be removed. There might be a need to pry down the steering knuckle to remove the strut. When you would be working with a spring compressor, you should apply even pressure going side-to-side as you compress the spring. Just avoid only tightening one side, which can lead to uneven pressure on the spring.
• Now that you have the spring under pressure, then the top center nut should be removed on the strut rod. It might require the use of a pass-through socket set and Allen key to keep the rod from spinning while you remove the top nut.
• The new strut should be grabbed and then transfer the spring and hardware on the new strut, being sure to align the end of the spring coil with the notch in the base plate. The strut bushing should then be aligned onto the shaft of the strut, with the notch in the top plate covering the other end of the spring. It should then be tightened in place with the nut provided.
• Now once the strut is assembled and the top center rod nut has been tightened to hold the spring in place, then you should remove the coil spring compressors.
• The new strut should then be installed by attaching the upper end of the strut by placing the captive bolts on the mount through the holes in the vehicle’s body.
• Then you should pry the control arm down and align the lower strut clamp with the steering knuckle. The clamp should then be attached to the steering knuckle with the same two bolts that you removed when taking the old one out.
• The upper bolts can now be securely tightened. The brake caliper should be reinstalled if it was removed, and make sure to pump up the brakes before you start driving.
• The front wheel should be reinstalled and then you should tighten the lug nuts. These procedures should be repeated for the other tires as well.