Brake Caliper Installing Guide

• Floor Jacks 

• Jack Stand 

• Wheel Chock  

• Ratchet and Socket Set

• Penetrating Oil

• Torque Wrench

• Lug Wrench

• Protective gloves

• Safety glasses

  
  

These repair methods are provided for informational purposes only. Any damage or injury incurred in the practice of these methods is not the responsibility of PartsAvatar Canada. We always encourage you to consult a professional if you cannot perform the repairs yourself.

• Step 1 Safety Instructions and Precautions
• Step 2 Placing Wheel Chock
• Step 3 Loosen The Lug Nuts
• Step 4 Lift The Vehicle Using A Floor Jack
• Step 5 Support The Vehicle On Jack Stand
• Step 6 Removing The Wheel
• Step 7 Use Penetrating Oil To Loosen The Bolts
• Step 8 Removing The Brake Caliper
• Step 9 Remove The Brake Pads From The Caliper Bracket
• Step 10 Remove Caliper Bracket
• Step 11 Check The New Brake Caliper
• Step 12 Installing New Caliper Bracket
• Step 13 Removing The Brake Hose
• Step 14 Cleaning The Brake Hose
• Step 15 Installing The Brake Hose
• Step 16 Cleaning The Brake Fluid
• Step 17 Installing New Brake Caliper
• Step 18 Precautions While Bleeding The System
• Step 19 Bleeding The Brake System
• Step 20 Installing Of The Wheel
• Step 21 Jacking The Car Down
• Step 22 Road Testing

Never work on vehicles that are hot. Let the vehicle cool before starting the work. Park the vehicle on a flat surface, and pull the emergency brake. Be careful when lifting the car. Use secure jack points for the jack and jack stands. While working under the car, always use jack stands for safety. Make use of safety goggles where necessary.

Before starting the work, ensure that the vehicle is parked on a level surface so it doesn't roll back or forward. Pull the emergency brake. Then place wheel chocks on the rear side of the rear wheels. These wheel chocks will not allow the vehicle to roll back while jacking up.

The next step is to remove the wheel, so start by loosening the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground. Loosen the lug nuts using a lug wrench, but do not remove the wheel yet. If you have ever changed a flat tire, you might be familiar with this step.

Lift the car carefully using a floor jack. You can refer to the car's owner's manual to check the right location to place the jack underneath the vehicle. Some cars are provided with dedicated spots to place the floor jacks and once you have located them, use the jack to lift the car.

Once the wheel is clear off the ground, place the jack stand under the chassis jacking points and lower the vehicle onto the jack stand. You can refer to the manual for the specific spots. You must use a jack stand while working on the vehicle for safety because the hydraulic jacks can sink over time without warning.

Remove all the loose lug nuts and remove the wheel. Keep the wheel at a safe distance so that it doesn't interfere with the rest of the process.

Brake calipers can sometimes have bolts that are rusted, partially corroded, or "jammed" into the unit. These bolts can be tough to remove, so apply a good amount of penetrating oil and allow the oil to seep into the bolts. Leave it for several minutes. 

To remove the old caliper, locate the two bolts on the back of the caliper, and remove them. For more easy access, turn the wheel left or right and remove the two caliper mounting bolts with a proper socket. Pry the brake caliper with a flat screwdriver off of the brake rotor. Hang the brake caliper with a rope to the suspension, as the caliper will still be attached to the vehicle by a flexible brake hose leading to the brake master cylinder. Leave the caliper attached to the hose for now since it could leak brake fluid otherwise.

The brake pads are rectangular-shaped pieces that are fitted on the front and rear sides of the brake rotor. Now, you have to remove the brake pads. Keep in mind how they are attached, as some brake pads are attached with metal clips whereas some just snap on. Gently pull them out without damaging any clips or the brake rotor. Check and remember the orientation of the brake pads as you remove them so you can install them easily. Remove the brake pad clips safely without damaging them. For detailed information about brake pads, you can refer to our brake pads buying guide.

Locate the 2 bolts on the backside of the caliper bracket that is on top and bottom. Loosen and remove them.  Once you remove both bolts from the back, carefully lift the caliper bracket up off of the brake rotor to remove it.

Always purchase the right brake caliper that is the same year, make, and model as your car. To avoid having to match the hardware to your previous caliper, get a caliper that comes with a bracket. To avoid having to replace the calipers on your other wheels, make sure the new caliper is the same style as your old one.

Place the caliper bracket that came with your new caliper in the same location on the brake rotor as the old one, with the bolt holes towards the back. Hand-tighten the bolts until you can no longer rotate them. Tighten the bracket fully with a proper socket. Fit the removed brake pad clip and press them into their actual position. To know more about brake calipers, you can refer to our ultimate brake caliper buying guide.

Once the caliper bracket has been fitted, open the brake fluid reservoir cap and check the brake oil, top it up if necessary. From the old caliper, separate the flexible brake hose. To accomplish this, unbolt the brake hose banjo bolt from the brake caliper and place an oil pan beneath the caliper to collect any brake fluid that may spill out. Remove the banjo washers and the banjo bolt from the old caliper. Once it's off do not reuse them as they can cause brake oil leakage.

Before installing the brake hose onto the new caliper, remove dirt and other contamination from the brake hose with a clean cloth.

Now install the brake hose to the new caliper by placing one banjo washer on the banjo bolt and pushing the banjo bolt through the brake hose hole. Then put the second banjo washer on between the surfaces of the brake hose and the brake caliper. Connect the banjo bolt to the new caliper and tighten it to the proper torque.

Take a piece of clean cloth and clean off any spilled brake fluid from the brake hose. Ensure there is no brake fluid on the rotor or on the new caliper.  

Fit the brake pads on the brake rotor. You can use the same brake pads that you had before or you can buy new ones if they need to be replaced. Slide the ends of the brake pad into the slots on the top and bottom parts of the caliper bracket, making sure both the brake pads contact the brake rotor. Now slide the new caliper on the brake pads and tighten it with the mounting bolts on the caliper bracket. Once the bolts are tight, check every component for proper fitment, cleaning, and tightening.

Since you opened the brake hose to replace the brake caliper, you expose the brake system to air so you have to bleed the lines and remove air from the brake system. For this, start by topping off the brake reservoir as air can easily get sucked back into the system if the master cylinder has less brake fluid.

Look for the metal bleeder screw on the backside of the caliper close to where the brake hose connects on top. The bleeder screw helps remove air from the caliper so your brakes work properly. Place a rubber hose on the brake bleed screw and make sure it fits snugly over the screw’s nipple. Put the other end of the hose in a clear container so you will be able to see the air bubbles forming. Have a friend in the driver's seat and let him start pumping the brake pedal a few times. Let your friend press and hold the brake pedal. At this time, you open the brake bleed screw with a flat spanner. You will find air bubbles coming out with the brake fluid and then close the bleeding screw. Do this process multiple times to pump the air out of the caliper. Keep checking the brake fluid level and top up if required. Now check the brake pedal. It should be firm and not spongy.

Place the wheel back on the hub and tighten the lug nuts by hand to get the wheel snug against the hub.

Lift the vehicle with a jack, to remove the jack stands and then completely lower the vehicle back on the ground. Place the jack and the jack stand aside. Fully tighten the lug nuts or bolts with a lug wrench. Remove the wheel chocks from the rear wheel.

The final step of the brake job is the road test. Drive carefully and ensure that the brakes function correctly. Drive the vehicle at 30 to 40 kilometers per hour and slowly start braking till the vehicle stops. Repeat the process a few times, and you are done.

• Many calipers can malfunction, and frequently these malfunctions aren't immediately apparent.

• Examine the guide pins thoroughly. The caliper is secured by guide pins, which must easily slide in and out.

• Before reassembly, the guide pins must be thoroughly cleaned and well lubricated with lubricant.

• Examine the guide pin boots, as they serve to seal and safeguard the pin.

• The caliper piston's bore is probably corroded if the piston is stuck or challenging to push in, and it has to be replaced.

• Not using a vehicle for long can make the brake pads stick to the rotor and can even jam the caliper piston.

• Rotate the wheel using your hand. If it doesn’t spin freely, you may need to examine the brake pads and the caliper.

• If a stuck caliper is not repaired or changed, it can cause overheating.

  
  

• Always use new mounting components. When driving, old materials may rattle and hasten the caliper's rate of deterioration.

• While attaching your new caliper, make sure the torque is correct. They are unique to the model and design of the caliper. 

• There may be some differences between replacing the front and rear brake calipers. Be sure you comprehend how to set up the caliper you are using. The assembly should be mounted properly.

• Corrosive brake fluid is used. If it spills on a painted surface, clean it up with soap and water immediately.

• The braking system should always be bled and flushed after a caliper installation. While air makes the brakes less effective, moisture build-up in the pipe can cause corrosion.

• Installing a new caliper may not be done according to the manufacturer's instructions exactly as shown here. If that's the case, it would be best to adhere to the manufacturer's instructions.

  
  

Most automobiles include a system of sensors that can alert you when your brakes aren't functioning properly. The brake light flashes when sensors detect a fault with the system, however, this system is often somewhat constrained. When the brake fluid or pressure is low or the brake pads are worn to the point where replacement is necessary, the brake light will commonly come on if your car has brake pad sensors. Calipers should last the lifetime of the vehicle, as opposed to brake pads, which need to be replaced frequently. If you suspect a malfunctioning caliper in your car, it's crucial to conduct a careful diagnosis depending on the issue you're having. There are a number of ways to examine and fix a broken caliper.

When applying the brakes, a vehicle may pull to one side or the other due to a seized brake caliper or caliper sliders. While moving down the road, the car occasionally pulls as well.

Brake fluid leaks from the piston seal or bleeder screw can occur in brake calipers, that is hydraulically operated.

A leaking caliper can result in a spongy or mushy brake pedal. A seized piston or stuck sliders might also leave too much space between the pad and rotor, giving the pedal an odd feel.

Obviously, your automobile will have less stopping power if you have a bad caliper, which causes a soft brake pedal.

Sticking caliper slider pins frequently result in uneven brake pad wear. Uneven wear can occasionally also be brought on by a sticky caliper piston. The pads will be partially applied in both scenarios, causing them to drag across the rotor.

Obviously, your automobile will have less stopping power if you have a bad caliper, which causes a soft brake pedal. During driving, a jammed brake caliper might push the brake pads up against the rotor. When the brakes at the affected wheel are always applied (or partially applied), the car may feel as though it is dragging.

The brake pads will eventually become worn down by a stuck brake caliper. You will then hear the well-known sound of grinding brakes.

One of the causes of a dashboard brake light turning on is a leak in the brake fluid. The light may be an indication that the caliper has failed because a leaking may occur from a worn-out rubber seal at the caliper piston.

It is usually a good idea to select the materials that best meet your needs. It is crucial that the brake caliper and its components are manufactured from materials that can withstand the stress, high temperatures, and environmental conditions that they are subjected to. The two most widely used materials are cast iron and aluminum. Cast iron is more durable and better at dissipating heat, while aluminum products are prized for being lightweight. Earlier cars had cast iron calipers, but aluminum brake calipers are cheap and are becoming more common in newer cars.

Any brake caliper's warranty should be carefully read because it is both restricted and particular. Only if there are any manufacturing problems then replacements are offered. Therefore, you must make a choice and strike a balance between guarantee and cost.

Choosing brakes that can resist the beat from excessive braking becomes crucial because brakes are put under a lot of stress. The internal components of the calipers tend to break after a while, even if the lifespan relies on many variables, including driving behavior and road conditions. A powder coat layer and thick metallic pistons extend the life of the calipers while shielding them from repeated contact with dirt, filth, or other debris, which is one of the main causes of caliper damage.

The idea that any caliper could fit as long as it could be screwed together is a very widespread one. Contrary to popular belief, the choice of calipers for a vehicle is made after careful consideration of factors such as the size of the brake piston, the thickness of the rotor, and the necessary braking torque. The manufacturers discuss the brake calipers' suitability for a particular vehicle or a selection of automobiles from multiple manufacturers. You must confirm that your car is one of them. A good compatibility check is required before making your purchase because changing the caliper could literally be a recipe for catastrophe.

When it comes to saving your valuable time, effort, and, of course, money in the long run, choosing a reputable and top brand is always considered the best option. Those who are more knowledgeable about brake calipers can choose according to their personal preferences, but for those who are less familiar, going with a trusted and top brand is always counted as the best idea.

Re-manufactured calipers are those that have all the internal parts, including seals and pistons, changed while still using the previous caliper's body. The brand-new calipers, on the other hand, are made entirely of parts that have never been put to use before. The reason the re-manufactured ones are the greatest option for you is that it's cheap and the braking performance is just as good as the new ones.  The caliper body doesn't degrade over time unless it sustains damage from an accident.